Why Use Social Media To Promote Your Horse Business Or Organization?

social media logosEvery day, horse business owners are inundated with stories about social media marketing: Facebook and fan pages, Twitter and tweets, blogs, videos and always something that’s even “better.” They read success stories on how social media can help them grown their business, provide better customer service and position them as the expert in their field. They feel increasingly pressured to become a part of this.

While some are still frozen by indecision (“maybe this is all just a fad…”), others have taken the plunge and have set up their pages and perhaps even posted a few times. But nothing immediately happens to increase their business. They realize that all this time posting is actually taking time away from their real business – riding horses, giving lessons, cleaning stalls, creating products, filling orders. Suddenly, they wonder if social media is really worth it. 

The answer is “yes, it is.”  Here’s how:

  • There’s nothing magical about social media marketing – it’s word-of-mouth marketing
  • … just at the speed of light and with a global reach.
  • Social media helps you get closer to and listen to your customers. You can find out what they are saying about your product?
  • Social media encourages your customers to see you as a person who love horses as much as they do;
  • Social media allows you to promote your ideas, products, and services directly to the horse market at zero cost (free!);
  • Social media helps you get immediate feedback from your customers at zero cost (free!);
  • Social media helps you to talk to your customers on a one-on-one level;
  • Social media allows you to gain their trust and to be allowed into their inner circle of acquaintances and friends;
  • Social media allows you to establish yourself as an expert and relate that expertise to how your product or organization can help them;
  • Social media allows you to build and reinforce your brand daily, weekly, monthly, etc.
  • Social media can encourage our audience to act – buy, join, etc.

One of the best ways to get started in social media is NOT by writing, but by “listening.” Start reading about your customers on their page and follow some of the key businesses and organizations for the sport. Try to paint a picture of who these people are and if they fit your image of your ideal customer.

But before you start posting, develop a good strategic plan.  Will you have the time and resources to write good content on a regular basis, respond to customer comments in a timely manner, and monitor the trends in both social media and the horse world?  Unfortunately, this is where most horse businesses who want to use social media lose momentum and their Facebook and Twitter accounts stay un-updated and eventually potential customers or members lose interest and top looking for your posts. Or worse, they assume you have gone out of business.

HBG GGF web sitePosting on social media sites doesn’t have to be complex. Read to see what their problems are and figure out how your business can help them solve them. If you give them something they find valuable, it will keep them coming back for more.  Nothing else matters unless they feel you are a trusted source of information.

There is no rigid formula on how to do it social media well.  No matter what your goals are (sales, awareness, etc.) your #1 reason for using social media is to build a relationship with your audience.

#besthorsestalls

Photo credits: bp.com, horsebizgirl
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Light Up Your Barn This Season

barn lightingAs the days start to get shorter with corresponding longer nights, now is a good time to start thinking of adding some additional lighting to your barn to chase away the gloom for both you and your horse.  Horse’s eyes are sensitive to weak light. They can see fairly well at dusk, but they don’t have the ability to adjust their eyes to darkness quickly, which is why they will often refuse to enter a dark building from bright sunshine. In addition, shadows and poorly lit areas make stall cleaning cumbersome and inhibit observation and care. A combination of individual stall and general aisle way lighting is preferred. Place fixtures where they won’t create shadows for the horse when he enters his stall.  

For natural lighting, provide a minimum of 4 square feet of window space in each stall.window with glass There are a variety of window styles from which you can select.  Many come with grills or yokes to help keep your horse’s nose out of where it shouldn’t be. Glass windows should be either out of reach (generally above 7 feet) or protected by sturdy bars or mesh. 

Big barn exteriors require big lights – standard residential type lights are typically too small and do not provide enough light. Dusk-to-Dawn Halogens are often installed over entryways for general lighting purposes and for safety. Select fixtures as to where they will be used as barns are dusty and in some areas (wash bays) very moist. Vapor tight fixtures are required in wet areas for safety and durability.  When selecting lighting bulbs, there are several options.  

Using lights in strategic places can also help with barn security. Install security lights at farm entrance and around barn doors. Either leave them on from dusk to dawn or install motion detection lights to alert you to intruders. Remember, however, that motion sensors can also be tripped by your barn cat or other animals.

In order for the lights (and other equipment) to work in the barn, you need adequate electricity.  All electrical wiring in the barn should be housed in metal or hard plastic conduit since rodents may chew unprotected wires, creating a fire hazard. Metal conduit can be used, but has the tendency to rust. Plan enough circuits, outlets and fixtures so switches are within easy reach.  Locate switches so lights can  be turned on and off at two convenience locations, usually at either end of the barn. Install outlets every 15 feet or so on both sides of the aisle.  Light switches should be four feet up from the floor and outlets should be 13-15 inches off the floor (or as required by code). 

Consider lighting in other areas of your barn as well. Common places are the wash/grooming areas, feed room and tack room. For wash bay lighting and other ideas from Classic Equine Equipment, click HERE

Classic Equine Equipment has a variety of lights for both indoor and outdoor use.  For a full listing of what is offered, check out Classic Equine Equipment’s catalog – click HERE.  

Look to lighting to help keep you and your horse safe and happy during the dark winter months.

photo credit:  Classic Equine Equipment

Fall Pasture Management Practices

barn with rolling hills propertyA sustainable pasture depends on proper management of both the fertility needs of the soil and good management of grazing animals.  One of the most critical periods is fall.  Management decisions made at this time can have a strong effect on the plant’s ability to overwinter, which then determines when new growth begins in the spring and how much total growth will be produced over the entire season. 

Overgrazing of pastures in the fall is one of the most damaging think you can do to help support to the root system’s ability to rebuild and the formation of new grass shoots for spring growth.  This is also a time when plant root systems are rebuilding from summer shedding.  Growing points are developing in the fall to provide next spring’s growth.  These young grass shoots, or tillers, are much like babies.  Both need a steady supply of nutrients and protection from overgrazing.  In the fall, nutrients are supplied from the previous season’s tillers.  If pastures are grazed or mowed lower than 3-4 inches in the fall, these reserves are reduced and the new tillers are starved.  Usually root formation will slow or stop and the tillers will grow slower and have fewer roots in the next spring.

Allowing animals to graze throughout the fall without pasture management results in horse sacrifice area HorsesForCleanWaterincreased bare areas that are prone to the encroachment of weeds.  Keeping animals off wet pastures is another way to keep pastures healthy.  Livestock on wet pastures kill grass, compact soils and create mud.  A better idea is to create a sacrifice area for your livestock during the winter. Create an enclosure such as a paddock or pen during wet months, thereby sacrificing a small portion of your pasture for the benefit of the remaining pasture.  Installing mud-free footing, e.g. sand or gravel,  in your sacrifice area will keep your animals happier and healthier than standing in mud.  Be sure to remove manure every 1-3 days to keep footing materials from becoming contaminated.

Fall is also a great time to take soil samples to test the fertility of the pasture soil.  Soil test should be taken during the same month each month for consistency.  Early fall is also a good time to apply nutrients based on your soil test.  Manure or other sources of nitrogen can be applied. But take care not to apply too much nitrogen – it can cause grass to grow too vigorously in the fall, making them more susceptible to winter damage. 

Post summer is a tough time to turn horses out on pasture if don’t want to have to have to renovate in the spring.  But a few simple adjustments in the fall can keep your pastures lush and healthy for next spring.

photo credits: Classic Equine Equipment, Horses For Clean Water

Jobs With Horses: Horse Show Technical Delegate

If you have a background in showing your horse, you may want to consider a jobtechnical delegate 1 USEVENTING as Technical Delegate (TD).  You can find them at horse shows for most every discipline.  Sometime they are called “Stewards.”  But no matter what they are called, their job is the same:  to make sure that horse show where they are stationed complies with the rules established for that discipline.  This, in turn, makes sure that all competitors have an equal opportunity to succeed at the show.

Remember that while many rules are the same for all disciplines, there are some horse show rules are different for different discipline. For example, while all mounted riders at a dressage show must wear approved helmet, those who compete in driven dressage are only required to wear a “hat.”  You may be asked to oversee the proper of saddlery and equipment. Martingales of any type are prohibited at Hunter shows in the Under Saddle, hack and tie-breaking classes. However, standing and running martingales used in the conventional manner are allowed for all Hunter over fences classes. And in Dressage, martingales aren’t allowed at all.  Bit and bridle checks are something that happen at nearly every show. With multiple ring, you may need to train others on how to do these checks.  At smaller shows, you can do them yourself.  

bit and bridle check SOMERFORDPARKIf it sounds like the job of a Technical Delegate is somewhat like a policeman, you’re not far off.  You’ll need to make sure that there is proper medical care personnel available, that horses are cared for in a humane way, that there are no issues between competitors or between a judge and a competitor.  The US Equestrian Rule Book is your best friend as a TD.  All the rules are plainly and comprehensively spelled out for you to enforce.  While you can’t eliminate a competitor, you can point out to the show manager when a rule need to be enforced.

And yes! You will be paid for this.  Rates will vary based on the length of the show, but usually also include meals, lodging and travel.  It makes for a long week or weekend as you’ll be required to be on the show grounds for the entire show.  But if you love horses and are a stickler for everyone following the rules, becoming a Technical Delegate might be a job for you.

For more information, visit the US Equestrian web site and download the appropriate forms.  https://www.usef.org/compete/resources-forms/licensed-officials/become-licensed

photo credits:  US Eventing, Somerford Park

How Horses Hear

horse ears dallasequetriancenterHorses have binaural hearing meaning they hear out of both ears at the same time, the same as people and most other animals.  However, unlike humans who have small, flat ears, a horse’s ears are large and shaped like a cup.  These ears act like a satellite dish to capture sound waves and funnel them to his inner ear.  Because of this, very little sound is missed and the horse might hear noises that you can’t.  This is one reason why you may think that everything is perfectly fine, but suddenly you horse spooks for no apparent reason.  He may have heard something that sounded like a predator to him.

A horse also has the ability to hear a wider range of high-frequency tones, like a dog being able to hear a dog whistle.  As a prey animal, hearing acuity is a necessary form of “early warning system” from predators.  Since predators rarely vocalize when stalking prey, the horse has learned to carefully listen for any sounds that a predator could be approaching – the snap of a twig, the rustle of grass. These noises contain the high-frequency sounds that you horse can then use to locate the direction from which the predator may be coming.  Horses aren’t worried about pinpointing the exact location of the predator – they’re not planning a counter-attack.  Instead, horses just want to know generally where they are located so they can decide which path will take them the furthest away from fangs and claws the fastest.  First the horse will use his ears to pinpoint those early warnings.  Then he’ll follow-up with eye movement and finally will raise and turn his head so he can better focus. During this time, the horse will stay as motionless as possible – often stopping their grazing so they can hear better.

Once the horse has determined that danger is in the area, it’s time to react.  Horses have a strong emotional response (fear) to whatever sensory input they receive.  This fear triggers a horse’s flight mechanism for safety.  Horses aren’t brave – they won’t remember that you are sitting on their back or standing in front of them.  Their only concern is survival – run first, think later.

Male horses may react more strongly to sound simply because they’re traditionally the herd watchdogs. They don’t necessarily hear any better than females do, but they feel a need to alert “their” herd to perceived danger. That’s why some horses suffer more anxiety than others at shows or in any new environment. A strange place can put your horse on high alert for danger, causing him to be emotionally aroused and to make his reaction to noise even stronger than it would be in a familiar setting. If he’s fairly “bombproof”, his anxiety may not result in undesirable behavior. If not, you may have a hard time keeping him focused in the ring and extra care should be taken when riding or working around him.horse poms scheiderssaddlery

You can help reduce your horse’s ability to take in these reactive noises by blocking his ears with earplugs or thick wads of cotton.  If that’s not possible, keep alert to your horse’s ears to avoid a possible spook.  His ears will signal where is attention is directed – to the side at a dog, behind him at a flapping bag, etc. If you can direct his attention elsewhere, you can usually avoid the spook.

Like humans and other animals, your horse can lose his ability to detect sound as he ages. Age-related hearing loss in horses can begin at age five for horses, starting with the higher frequencies and working down the scale. High-frequency hearing loss isn’t generally obvious in horses until they reach about fifteen. But because your horse has a wider range of high-frequency hearing than a human, he can lose more of it before you notice a lack of response to sounds you hear.

checking ear MobileVeterinaryPracticePractice good ear health by checking his ears weekly for signs of insect infestation or infection.  Redness, scratching, hair loss on the ear could indicate rubbing. If you suspect a hearing problem in your horse consult your veterinarian.  If your horse has hearing loss, you’ll need to make some management changes for safety. These tips are actually good whether you suspect hearing loss or not, especially when working around a strange horse. Always speak to the horse as you approach, so you don’t startle him. And be sure he heard your approach warning by watching the direction of his ears: one or both should flick toward you.

Understanding how your horse’s hearing and reaction to sounds differs from humans can help you anticipate and reduce his anxiety and avoid a dangerous reaction.

photo credits:  Dallas Equestrian Center, Schneider’s Saddlery, Mobile Veterinary Practice

In Case Of Emergency…..

This month has been just one disaster after another for most of the country, especially for horse owners.  From hurricanes in the south to fires in the west, nearly everyone has been effected by some concern for the safety of their horses in case an evacuation is required.  It may be too late to prepare for the current emergencies, but you can prepare for the future.

The most important thing to do? Have a plan.  Don’t THINK about having a plan – HAVE A PLAN!  Flooding and fire are the two most common causes for evacuation of horses from your barn.  Who will do what, where will horses go, what about hay and feed, how will you i.d. your horses later?

  • How will you monitor the situation – TV, radio, social media?  Who is most likely to have the most up to date information?  Social media is great, but they may not have all the information such as road closures, evacuation centers, etc.                                
  • Who is responsible for relaying the information to horse owners or others associated with your barn?  How will you communicate this?
  • Will owners be required to come in and take care of their own horses or will the barn manager take responsibility as the lead on decisions.
  • What are the options for evacuation? A barn fire may just necessitate moving horses to a faraway pasture. Larger disasters may mean moving several miles away.  Is everyone going together? Who decides who goes where?
  • Who has trailers, how many horses can each haul, how is most likely to be able to get to the barn quickly, can others haul someone’s trailer if the owner is not available?
  • Will you take feed and supplies for all horses or are owners responsible for getting their own feed.  What about medications?
  • Will someone be responsible for taking tack, water/feed buckets, etc?
  • Do you have an emergency supply of halters and lead ropes stored somewhere for easy access.  Even if you normally keep your horse’s halter close by, in all the chaos of evacuation you may find your halter/lead missing.
  • If your horse isn’t comfortable being trailered, practice, practice and practice so that he loads easily.  A fire or flood is no time to learn your horse isn’t a good loader.
  • Finally, look at the tough decisions.  What will you do if you can’t take your horses?  It’s better to put on a break-away halter with your i.d. and turn them loose.  They will do their best to survive.  Don’t tie them up or leave them in a stall and hope someone will come and rescue them.

contact info in horse's mane pro equine groomThere are several ways you can keep your horse i.d. to be returned to you.  I use an engravable dog tag from the pet store – many are now engravable on both sides.  I put all my contact information and attach it to my horse’s halter. Or write your phone number in indelible ink or paint on your  horse’s hooves.  Or, write your contact information and seal in a waterproof bag.  Braid or tie it into your horse’s mane.

We hope you never have to face a disaster that puts you and your animals at risk.  But just in case, make sure you have a plan in place – and everyone knows what it is.

photo credit: VoiceOfTheHorse, EquineGroom, The Oregonian

Review Your Horse’s “Normal” T-P-R

horse-with-headacheKnowing how your horse acts and reacts when he is feeling good will help you to faster realize when there is something “not right” with him. Every horse owner needs to know what is “normal” for their horse. Being able to report these to your veterinarian when you contact him can help evaluate whether a visit is necessary and/or how quickly your horse needs to be seen.

Get a baseline of your horse’s temperature, pulse and respiration (T-P-R) when he is healthy, relaxed and before working himYou may also want to get additional readings in both summer and winter and after riding to know what is normal for your horse in different circumstances.

What you’ll need:

  • watch that counts seconds
  • a thermometer – plastic digital one are best for ease and safety)
  • a stethoscope.
  • A notepad or record book for recording the vital sounds

Temperature:
The normal temperature for the horse is 100.0 degrees. However, a horse’s temperature can vary somewhat with the season. During the winter, your horse’s “normal” temperature may drop several degrees, but low temperatures generally are not causes for concern.  On the other hand, summer heat, as well as exercise, can often raise a horse’s temperature a few degrees.  These circumstances must also be taken into account when determining if there is cause for concern.

 It is easiest to take your horse’s temperature rectally with a clean digital thermometer. Coating the tip of the thermometer with petroleum jelly can make it easier for you to insert and more comfortable for your horse.  Always tie a string to the end of the thermometer to make sure you can retrieve it.  You can also briefly wrap your horse’s dock in a bandage to make it easier to push the tail hair away to insert the thermometer. Most thermometers will beep when the maximum temperature has been reached.

If your horse’s temperature is over 102 F, you should call your veterinarian. 

Pulse:

The pulse rate is taken by listening to the heart, located on the left side of the chest just behind the elbow. You can also take the pulse at the thick artery that runs underneath the cheekbone on either side of your horse’s face.  Place three fingers (never your thumb which has its own pulse) on the artery and press upward and inward.

Using a stephoscope can often make hearing and counting the heart beats easier.  Some people listen to the heart rate for 10 seconds and then multiply by 6, or 30 seconds and multiply by 2.  However, if you have any questions, listen to the pulse rate for the full minute.

The normal pulse rate is 40 beats per minute.

 Horses that are fit may have rates as low as 28 so knowing your horse’s condition is important.   Young horses and ponies can sometimes have a bit faster pulse rate.

Rates between 40-60 are considered “serious”, but may be explained by an elevated
temperature such as on a very hot day.  Also, if the horse is suddenly frightened or excited, his heart rate can become temporarily elevated on a very temporary.  Wait a few minutes and then recheck to see if the rate comes down when he is more relaxed. However, rates above 80 are considered “critical” and indicate a very serious problem.

However, ANY rate above 40, even 44, should be regarded with suspicion and evaluated in the overall picture of how the horse is feeling.

RESPIRATION:

Respiration is how hard your horse is breathing. Watch his sides as he breathes in and out and count the number of complete breaths.  Deep heavy breathing, or breathing with an extra abdominal effort, abnormal noise, labored breathing, or gasping are all indications of a serious problem.  

The normal rate for horses is between 8-12 breaths per minute. Again, many things can effect this that must be taken into consideration before considering whether it is abnormal.  One common factor is his temperature, excitement or a heavy workout.

OTHER VITAL SIGNS

While temperature, pulse and respiration are the three most common vital signs used to determine your horse’s health, there are other indicators that you may want to check and report to your veterinarian:

  • Mucus Membrane Color: The normal color is pink
  • Capillary Refill Time: After depressing the gums, the color should return within 1-2 seconds.
  • Gut sounds (borborygmus): A horse should have a normal gurgling sound on both sides of the abdomen back near the flanks.
  • Hydration: Pinch and elevate the horse’s skin over the shoulder, then let go. If it snaps back into place very quickly, your horse is properly hydrated

For a chart that can be posted next to your horse’s stall with instructions on how to take temperature, pulse and respiration, as well as normals and critical values, click HERE.

DANGER – Summer Heat!

sweating horseHeat stress and heat stroke are extremely dangerous conditions for your horse.  Often seen in the summer months in sports such as eventing, jumping, combined driving or other strenuous activities, especially in areas where the humidity is high, heat problems can also occur simply when riding an unfit horse at your own barn when you push him too hard or he has to stand in a poorly ventilated trailer for too long. There is a difference in the causes of heat stress and heat stroke.  Heat stroke can occur over a relatively short period of time.  Heat stress, also known as heat exhaustion, usually results from protracted fluid and electrolyte loss during exhaustive exercise.

As the horse continues to work, heat builds up in his muscles.  When the number of your horse’s respiration is faster than his heart rate per minute, this is called an inversion. This is a sign of high internal body temperature and the respiratory tract is attempting to dump some of the heat load. To remove the heat, your horse sweats, pulling heat from the interior of his body to his skin in a process known as evaporative cooling. Around 70% of the heat of locomotion is normally dissipated from the body using this process.  Warm air temperature and high humidity prevent a horse from adequately dissipating internal heat from his body.

However, other horses are susceptible to heat problems as well.   Horses with a full winter coat are at risk since the hair keeps in the body heat during cold weather.  Heavily muscled horses, such as Warmblood breeds and Quarter Horses, are at greater risk of retaining heat in the working muscles than leaner-breed horses such as Arabians or Thoroughbreds (thus the preference for these breeds in endurance racing). This is because they have a lower ratio of body surface area for cooling relative to their body mass that’s generating the heat. An overweight horse with abundant fat layers beneath his skin cannot dissipate heat effectively. Transporting a horse in an enclosed van in hot weather can contribute to dehydration and heat stress. Additionally, a horse which was shipped to a warmer climate and has not been acclimated to exercise in hot and humid conditions is ill-prepared to deal with the added stress of the new environment no matter how fit he is. Most horses need at least three weeks in a warmer climate to allow their bodies to adapt and dissipate heat more efficiently.

Know your horse’s usual temperature, especially after exercise.  A rectal temperature over 103.5° is a sure sign the horse is overheating. Also know your horse’s respiration rate and heat rate and check them if you think your horse may be stressed.  Finally do the capillary refill test to check blood flow and the pinch test to test for dehydration.

horse getting showerAfter any exercise here are some steps to help your horse cool out. As you finish a workout, bring your horse to a walk. Hop off and spend a minute or two walking him so blood flow continues to flush metabolic waste products and heat from his muscles. In warm weather, copiously bathe his head, neck, and legs with cool water. Large blood vessels in these locations flush heat to the skin surface, and rapid evaporative cooling is achieved by continual sponging of these areas. Apply cool water and as it heats up, scrape it off of major muscle groups, such as over the loin and hindquarters. Offer a bucket of water to your horse immediately following exercise. Find a shady spot for an overheated horse, preferably with decent air circulation from a light breeze or fan. An enclosed space with stagnant air adds to heat retention. Fans are helpful for convective cooling–as the air flows across the horse’s body, it pulls heat off the skin. In severe cases, severe dehydration might need to be treated with Intravenous fluids.  This can also help to cool the internal organs and muscles. Talk to your veterinarian about checking your horse’s acid-base balance and electrolyte status and correct if necessary.

stall with grill and fansBe aware of the condition called anhidrosis. Some horses in hot, humid climates can lose the ability to sweat due to overworked sweat glands that lose their ability to sweat and cool himself. The horse’s skin will be dry and hot to the touch.  There may be sweaty areas under the mane and saddle or in the groin area, but no moisture when you touch it.  Stop exercise immediately and restrain the horse from further physical exertion. Move the horse to a cool location and start aggressive cooling techniques immediately. This condition can easily proceed to heat stroke.

 

So enjoy the summer with your horse.  Just be aware that too much sun, humidity and exertion can cause problems for your horse.

Portland LOVES Polo!

Horses on fieldWhen you think of the game of polo, you usually think of it taking place in The Hamptons or in Kentucky or in England. But Portland, Oregon is not only rapidly becoming a hub of great polo, but it is building a reputation of horsemen and women giving back to the community.

On July 22 and 23, 2017, the Oregon Polo Classic, presented by the Classic Wine Auction, brought together the excitement and sophistication of polo with an exceptional two-day food and wine experience. The well-attended event was held at the Hidden Creek Polo Club in West Linn, Oregon.

The weekend included a Family Day on Saturday as well an “over 21” Championship Day where guests enjoyed exciting Championship polo, delicious food, exceptional wines and more. Highlights included the ladies hat parade and judging and the “divot stomp” where spectators go onto the polo field and help replace the grass divots created by the ponies hooves.

This was the second year for the Oregon Polo Classic at Hidden Creek and proceeds from this event will benefit three non-profit organizations that assist over 30,000 children and families suffering from physical, mental, behavioral, socioeconomic and other challenges in the Portland area.

In 2005, Sean and Gretchen Keyes started creating their vision to build polo grounds and stables, with an elevated viewing area seating for spectators and immaculate polo fields that would draw international polo players to Portland to compete.  In 2008, Hidden Creek Polo Club was open and ready for play.

field and tents JPGHowever, Hidden Creek is more than just a polo club.  It’s a venue dedicated to raising money for Portland charities. In addition to their signature event, they also hosted Polo Noir on August 12th. This single-day experience celebrated the game of kings with live music and Willamette Valley wine, and featured three-time Grammy Award winning legend Bruce Hornsby & the Noisemakers.

Polo originated in Persia sometime between the 6th century B.C. and the 1st century A.D.  Over the centuries, it became popular in Asia, India, Argentina and Great Britain before making it to the United States in 1876.  Polo is now an active sport in 77 countries.

The United States Polo Association (USPA), the governing body for polo in the U.S., was established in 1890.  There is to promote the game of polo while overseeing the safety and welfare of participants and mounts.

In addition to the professional players at Hidden Creek, the Pacific Northwest has is home to a great many amateur, high school and college teams.  Think you might like to try polo?  Click HERE and enter your location for a listing of polo clubs in your area.

photo credit: Hidden Creek Polo Club

 

Classic Equine Equipment Is Made in America!

made in america 2In support of the White House’s proclaimed “Made in America” week, we wanted to celebrate Classic Equine Equipment’s long-time commitment to their own made-in-America products.  Their contribution to the long lifespan of products is a quality point you won’t see on the surface. All of the company’s steel products are made in Classic’s hometown of Fredericktown, MO, ensuring complete control over the quality of the process and the end result.

Classic Equine Equipment, located among the rolling hills and horse farms of Southern Missouri, was founded in 1991 on a love for horses and a commitment to their ultimate care and safety. Though a lot has changed since then, our mission remains the same: To provide quality stall systems, barn components and accessories to meet the needs of discriminating horse owners.

The company goes to great lengths to make sure their passion for quality and love for horses shows in the details of the products we produce – smoother edges that prevent scratches or scrapes; narrower spacing between grills to make sure that small hooves don’t get caught; galvanized hand-welded steel frames that can endure all the punishment and abuse your horse can throw at them and keep on shining.

The quality that distinguishes Classic Equine’s products is not always evident to the untrained eye. The rust prevention built into Classic stalls is a case in point. The aisle 7company uses only pre-galvanized steel in its grillwork, stall hardware, pasture gates and all other components. A thin coating of zinc is applied to the steel at the mill, which combines with the powder coating process to provide an additional layer of rust prevention. It’s one example of the many extra steps Classic takes to build longevity into great looking, highly functional equipment. This is the case in settings ranging from private, small facilities to large, heavy use public boarding operations and veterinary hospitals.

Classic Equine’s stall systems come in styles that suit several budgets, but they’ll never be the cheapest based on price tag alone. When economies over the products’ long life span are factored in, however, the upfront costs are a sound investment. Plus, Classic Equine Equipment promises the one thing nobody can put a price tag on: peace of mind.

For more information, contact Classic Equine Equipment:

sales@classic-equine.com   (800) 444-7430

Source material:  Ride magazine, Classic Equine Equipment